To my coffee drinking friends in the American East (and elsewhere): I’m curious, has third wave coffee arrived? Did it get lost in translation?
Here’s why I ask: I picked up some coffee in Boston recently, and I am shocked, shocked! I say, by the definition of light roast that seems to be in play. First, a pricey bag of venerable Gesha Village Estate by esteemed roaster George Howell. It’s sold and labelled as a light roast, right in the middle of the light range. It is clearly a solid medium in colour, flavour, and bean hardness. Who am I now, to argue with George, but, here’s the kicker, it tastes like a medium roast, that is to say, chocolatey-burnt. Not ruined exactly… well, a little bit ruined. I can see these beans being to somebody’s taste, but any delicate flavours they might have had, those are lost to the burning, and to call them “lightly roasted,” that’s just wrong.
I was ready to write this off as a miscommunication or something, but next I opened a bag of Fogbuster “Blonde Bombshell” so light, you won’t believe how light this is, but brace yourself for an explosion of flavor. I’m just reading the label, here. I have never before personally handled a bean as dark as this one. They are dark. Caliginous. Stygian. Oily dark. Toss 'em in the waste heap dark, because I don’t want to have to clean my grinder from the oleaginous coating these poor, distressed beans have had forced upon them.
More than that, these beans are even darker on the inside. Fogbuster somehow injected more dark in the innards, after making the outards dark and shiny like I don’t even want to touch. What these things must taste like; I’m not even curious.
A serious question then: what constitutes a light roast in Boston? Did I just get twice unlucky?
Yeah it just depends roasters tend to stretch the definition of light roast. I like to look for also single origin because it’s usually more accurate in the roast level and they put more care into distinguishing each batch.
I’m not surprised from the company that markets “air roasted coffee”, but George Howell surprises me.
Dunkin’ is based in MA and their regular stuff is on the lighter side, especially for commercially available coffee. I think you just got unlucky.
Dunkin’ coffee is light(ish)? The very idea is shocking to me. More than shocking; this would shake the pillars of my world. I have never once drunk Dunkin’ coffee, but sink me if I don’t have to try it now. I won’t be expecting much, no, but the very idea that afterthought coffee from a major donut chain might be even one notch closer to righteous than char; that’s so intriguing that I think I have to hunt down a shop soon.
James Hoffman almost picked it as the winner on a blind taste test of US grocery coffee. I think Pete’s ended up winning? Anyway it was fun to see his reaction, since it was the first of the bunch to actually taste decent.
Dunkin’ locations are inconsistent, unfortunately. Your best bet is to buy a bag of their whole bean and brew it yourself with proper ratios.