I am building a house and trying to avoid power bricks and cables hanging on the wall for motion sensors, blind shutters, “add next smart house blinky here”.
This is just an aexample photo:
So I was thinking each IOT needs to have internet connection anyway. What about if I run a single CAT cable to each room, and position a switch in each room to split to couple CATs in each room (power socket, tv socket, window, ceiling fan). Main CAT from each room to go to the server room router. That way I can have one cable per room coming out from the router. And with some inexpensive POE switches in each room I can split to extra IOTs.
That way I wont be saturating the home wireless and needing expensive APs. And in the same time can deliver POE. Alternatively I can modify the CATs to run only 4 wires for 100MB network and remaining 4 for 12V if POE injection is complicated or routers cant deliver required IOT current.
I must say most IOTs will be DIY ESP/Arduino/MCUs
Is it possible you guys think?
OP, please listen to this. IT closet, conduits.
You keep mentioning IoT/5V/12V. Very few items in day-to-day use will be powered like this.
I started with Z-Wave, but ended up moving away from that due to too many devices and single-point-of-failure (the hub). Due to how messages are relayed, one bad or failing device can create a broadcast storm and take down everything. Zigbee competes with the same part of the radio spectrum as WiFi and also has a single-point-of-failure (the hub). I now exclusively use wifi for things. TPlink Kasa for switches and outlets, plug-in switched outlets, Shelly for motion sensors, relays (garage door)
Networking - Router: Use something like pfsense or opnsense. This will control DHCP, DNS, inter-VLAN routing. A separate VLAN and associated firewall rule will allow you to block your “IoT” items from getting out of the network.
Networking - Switching: for ease of use, use UniFi switches. These will control port PoE, VLAN port assignment.
Networking - Wireless: again, for ease of use, use UniFi WAPs. These are easy manage and for a second or third SSID, tagged to a “IoT” VLAN that you block from internet access. Strategically place WAPs for best coverage. At any given time, I have ~75 things on the wireless network amongst 4 WAPs
Home alarm system: 2-wire all door and window reed sensors to the IT closet. Use Konnected or something like that.
Cameras: All good cameras nowadays are PoE. Use a non-consumer grade of ONVIF/RTSP camera, think Axis, or possibly even UniFi Protect. Condiut and ethernet to external (or internal) camera location. Mind your field-of-view angles to insure coverage.
Voice control: Google Home/Alexa/Apple speaker pucks. This is where you will want to find creative places to stick power outlets. Most of these things have their own power brick.
Home audio: For both whole home or TV/theater - Sonos is the 800lb gorilla here. They need mains and ethernet. They can make their own mesh via wifi, but I prefer hard-wiring everything, especially if you can plan it out.
Someone mentioned window shade control. This is where you may need some 12V or proprietary plug; that recessed box would be good for this.
Also, don’t forget a low-voltage conduit from the house’s telecom/data service entrance. You may have copper or coax provider handoff now, but they could give you a fiber handoff one day.
Run one more empty conduit to an area near your mains panel. If you get solar, the combiner panel needs network.
I could go on and on…
Awesome thank you all guys for chipping in. So much to unpack here for an electronic guy who has no experience in networking and home automation.
I just spun up HA yesterday to get my feet wet and I can see how easily I can get tempted to rump it up with a bunch of smart stuff. Ideally, I want to use less internet connected ones (although I said IOT initially, but really mean smart devices which i can control via HA and don’t ping home unnecessarily)
Conduit is a great choice, my mind struggles to assimilate how to leave the unpatched end of the cables/conduit at various sides of each room without building too many recess points. Or even how high to leave them from the floor.
Regarding conduits, perhaps I can run one to the corner of the windows for blinders, motion sensors and automatic windows (if I can find those)
Won’t running a conduit to every power socket (3 per room at least?) might be a bit overkill? Apart then the computer corner power/ethernet and TV sockets would I need a conduit near bedside tables power points?
I see the point why switches in every room are a maintenance issue. However, these smart devices, would they saturate the network so much that I need direct cable from each of them to the server closet?
I am not planning to run a streaming device at the end of each. High Bandwidth TV/PC, camera cables should go directly to the server closet, but the rest hopefully will be
Have a look at this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBzanvRn2Hc
Skip the ~7:00-13:30 section as it is not relevant.
In the last segment, he goes over a conduit run from the service entrance. However, I would be running strapped-down rigid conduit since, when pulling cable, there is potential for it to flex (it will absorb the pull force, rather than the force acting on the cable only). His endpoint in the attic area is fine for single-floor homes, but for multiple floors, you will want to run those all the way to the destination.
I would also run conduit for all the wall jacks instead of bare cable.
One thing you can consider: Those new LED puck recessed lighting can double as ceiling access panels. You can end some conduit near those areas. A lot less work to fish wires if you already have 75% of it done
Here is another good reddit discussion “Deciphering what “run conduit everywhere” means for a home remodel”
If you use a single, low-cost wifi router, or your ISP’s CPE device, it may, yes. This is why most people are talking about adding WAPs (wireless access points), which are not routers by the way, they plug into the router (ethernet cable, PoE-powered usually) to “extend” the reach of your wireless and add capacity.
Who’s to say in a few years you even WANT to connect these devices to your network? What if they aren’t ethernet at all but can still run over twisted pair cabling? Or maybe you end up wishing you had some fiber, or something else?
Independent runs isn’t about saturation, these aren’t gig traffic devices. It’s about management and flexibility. There are just things you can’t do with a bunch of cheap pocket switches.
For more budget friendly recommendations, the unifi switches are great but expensive while used Aruba 2920 POE’s are $130 on eBay. Unifi UAP pro can handle 50 devices on 1 AP, most houses can be covered by 2 maybe 3.
Axis cameras are big money bad value and good for commercial use if you’re going Exaqvision over Blueiris, Dahua are great value and can do color night vision now for much less. There are some solid Amcrest offerings around too. Avoid wireless cameras over wired.
I wouldn’t recommend buying wifi devices without matter support at this point. Thread solves congestion issues. Zigbee might be 915 or 2.4ghz but your demanding devices will run on the 5ghz anyways.
Good point on the home theater! You can run all your speaker wires now. Don’t forget power for smart door locks!
centralizing everything and having conduit here and there is great.
but jesus christ some of that is just bizarre, completely needless and would be a nightmare to work with.
up sizing all of the 12/2 cabling to 10/3? i’m pretty sure that might cause more than a few electricians to jump off a bridge or any electrical bid to be 5x higher than what it would normally cost even when excluding the cost of material difference.
I find Shelly wifi fine for mains powered wall switches but motion sensors and contact sensors and anything else with a battery need ZigBee IMO because the battery life and latency with wifi is absolutely intolerable.
all relatively good and common advise but the cable up sizing to 10/3 is absolute bizarre and a waste of money.
may as well just pay the $20-30 a month for a monitored system
but 4 cables to a door – 2 for a contact sensor, 2 for a shock sensor. assuming OP buys a proper door that can’t be kicked in. may as well have a notification.
4-6 for windows. 2 for a shock sensor if the glass is laminated – glass break sensors don’t work well, 2 for the contact sensor, 2 for shades.