Get a hold of the cheapest wifi router you can, set it to AP mode (using your PC), and then try to connect to it with your wireless devices (with the default SSID) to see if you get an improvement. It may not even work with your pc, if Just-a-waffle_ is correct.

Room router/AP ==> your wifi router in AP mode ==> your pc.

It might, depending on your PoE switch’s power, and your 1=>2 extender. You should try to get a “gigabit” poe extender, which are almost double the cost of a 100mbps poe extender.

Well, there goes MY theory, haha!
The twists seem low. But I would try it anyway.

Be sure to use the same colors on each end. Put a TP on pins 1&2, then another on 4&5, another on 3&6, and finally, the last one on 7&8.

If you wanna know why the 3&6 pins are use this way, it has to do with history. Back in the day, when there was only one phone line, the RJ11’s 4 pins would use a central technique. The middle pins were the one line. The next line was put around the main line, and used the outside pins. This means lazy manufacturers could get away with just using 2 wires for telephony devices. I’ve opened up a few in my 49 years of life, and I’ve seen this!

Then, the RJ14 was introduced with 6 pins. They kept the same scheme, and put the 3rd pair on the outer-outer pins. So the main “line” was on pins 3&4, next was 2&5, third was 1&6.

When the RJ45 came out, someone realized that un-twisting the 4th line to stretch to the outer-outer-outer pins, was taking the category out of spec. So, they compromised and put main line on the inner most pins, 2nd line on the next outer pins, but then put a pair on pins 1&2, and a pair on 7&8, and everyone (that mattered) was happy.

So, that is why we all put a pair on 3&6. Also, no solid color (ring) was put next to a solid color of another pair.

• Pin 1 - Orange & White
• Pin 2 - Orange - ®
• Pin 3 - Green & White
• Pin 4 - Blue - ®
• Pin 5 - Blue & White
• Pin 6 - Green - ®
• Pin 7 - Brown & White
• Pin 8 - Brown - ®

Not sure which is the Ring vs Tip for your cable’s twisted pairs, but you can try to assume the darker of the pair is the Ring. (Grey, Blue, Purple, Orange)

So, in your case, I would do something like this:

• Pin 1 - White
• Pin 2 - Grey ®
• Pin 3 - Brown
• Pin 4 - Blue - ®
• Pin 5 - Pink
• Pin 6 - Purple - ®
• Pin 7 - Yellow
• Pin 8 - Orange - ®

I’m going to go out on a limb here, and say that I can see some affiliated colors here.

On the right, you have Orange and Yellow, but for my color scheme to work, let’s call it “light orange”. So, Orange/Light Orange.

Then, the navy blue and lighter blue is another pair, and I’m calling it Blue/Light Blue.
Then, Brown and a pinkish tan one, which I deem “light brown.” => Brown/Light Brown.
Finally, Grey, and white, which is the lightest shade of grey. => Grey/Light Grey.

I would map the Orange pair to the Orange pair, Blue with Blue, Brown with Brown, and the Greys with Greens. Hopefully, that’s how they’re paired in the cable, as I cannot see that in the picture, but I can make an educated guess.
I can also see they probably used the blue pairs for pins 4 & 5, the brown for 3 & 6, the orange for 7 & 8, and the grey for 1 & 2. But if you’re going to re-crimp, use my color mapping.

Also of note, category rated cables have a set number of twists per inch. Generally speaking, the more TPI, the higher the rating, and the lower the electro-magnetic interference, which means higher throughput.

YOUR CABLE might not have enough twists to even reach 100mbps, please be aware of this.

What lovesredheads_ says is true.

I assume you have 1gb service from your ISP, and it connects to a 1gb router.

ISP --> 1gb router

Now you want to attach that router to your 10gb switch. Yes, that will work.

ISP --> 1gb router - cat6 -> 10gb Switch

then the 10gb Switch connects like this:

===> 10gbe NAS

===> 2.5gb PC 1

===> 2.5gb PC 2

===> 10gbe PC 3

Point 1. At any given time, any device will connect to the INTERNET “up to”* 1gb between all active communications. (they will share)

Point 2. PCs 1 & 2 will be able to connect to the NAS (and to PC 3) at “up to”* 2.5gbe.

Point 3. PC 3 will be able to connect to the NAS at “up to”* 10gbe

*All active devices, while not using LACP, will SHARE the max speed of their local LAN

Point 4. If all 3 PCs are downloading from the NAS at the same time, they are sharing the 10gb. So, PC1’s speed is 2.5, PC2’s speed is 2.5, but PC3’s speed is only 5 (because the other 2 PCs are taking up 5)

Point 5. If PC 1 (or PC 2) is downloading from the internet, it will be at 1gb. But if it’s also transferring a file to the NAS, the transfer will be at 1.5gb, because 1gb of its bandwidth is being utilized from the internet.

Point 6. You can have other 1gb devices connected to the 10gb switch and it will not affect the speed of your 2.5/10gb connections (unless those devices are downloading from the internet)

Point 6a. They can also just connect to the router, with no difference.

Question: does the conduit run straight into a box, or does it bend into a box? It doesn’t matter if the conduit has bends in it between boxes. If they are straight, you could just run ONE cable to your study, and not worry about putting jacks in the boxes in washroom and bedroom.
Ideally, I would run a single cable to each box, and use a switch at the modem/router side. (unless modem/router has 4 ports already)
Pictures would be cool.

PS: edit your post to say that there are nylon pull strings in the conduit already.

From the Home Networking FAQ in this sub reddit…
Under Helpful Resources section, you find Home Networking Examples.

It starts with the basic structure:
[Modem ==> router]* ==> switch ==> All other devices (including switches)
or

Modem ==> [router ==> switch]* ==> All other devices

* Sometimes, network devices have two components of the basic structure. So, if the modem has more than 1 LAN port, then it is also a router. A router usually has more than one LAN port, so there is, in fact, a “switch” mechanism inside of it.

The number one thing to know is that one in a home environment should be putting the switch before the router. (Unless you are paying for multiple IP addresses from your ISP) The ISP’s modem is looking for only one MAC address to deliver its data to; if you were to connect a switch to the modem, then only one of the devices connected to that switch will get the data to it, and be assigned a public IP. [There’s more to this, but I don’t want to overwhelm anyone]

The second thing to know is that there should only be one “master” or “main” router, and any other routers downstream should be in “AP mode” [aka Bridge mode – mainly for routers that don’t have wifi] or else they will fight to control all the traffic, and cancel each other out.

The third thing to know, is what rockker60 said, if the router is slower than the switch, then you’re stuck at that slow speed for your network. Your network speed is the speed of your slowest network device in the chain/down-line.

The fourth think to know, is there are two categories of switches, managed, and un-managed. The unmanaged are your plug-and-play type. In layman’s terms, it’s a glorified splitter. There are also a sub category: power-over-ethernet [PoE] and regular.

I’ll stop here. I suggest to read the FAQ. It’s very enlightening for beginners, especially for home networking.