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11 months agojasco sells a 220v/40A zwave switch but I don’t believe it has power monitoring.
I think this clamp used to be much cheaper
https://www.smarthomegadgets.shop/products/aeotec-z-wave-smart-energy-meter
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Cake day: October 27th, 2023
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there are also Homeseer WX300 zwave switches,
Z-wave us is its own radio system and API. If you have no z- wave devices you don’t need a zwave radio. One big plus side of z-wave is it is a common technology used by many vendors. Think USB vs Lightning. If you have a computer with a USB port, you are 99.9% confident you can plug a USB device into it and it will work.
As for what HomeSEer supports, go to the drivers section of shop. Homeseer. Com.
Above link is filtered on Linux, primary lighting tech, and free.
I see support for Tplink, wemo, tuya (smart life) , shelly, and mqtt.
More are available for a fee.
I didn’t say pick a brand. I said pick a technology. Some technologies are tied inexplicably to brands but not all. Lightning belongs to Apple. But USB and wifi are multi-vendor technologies. Can you name the brand of USB? no, you buy Logitech and Microsoft and DLink and dozens more brands.
There are multivendor technologies in home automation. Z-Wave, Zigbee and MQTT/Tasmota are established, to various levels. Matter is a theoretically multivendor tech that is still nascent in the market.
go read the wiki ( http://reddit.com/r/HomeAutomation/wiki/index ) to learn about the basic technologies. Do some browsing to see what’s for sale in your market. Pick one tech to be your foundational system (I recommend Z-Wave or Zigbee) that can provide for >80% of your needs. Figure out what your likely runner up is that covers 10-15%, and expect maybe 5% weird gizmos.
Decide if “suitable for use” is OK or if you need “best in class”. Even in tech, “best in class” winds up with prima donnas that dont play nice. You will find often a company does one thing incredibly well and is a total nightmare to integrate outside their tiny walled garden. Linking multiple walled gardens together becomes a constant pain to keep active. It is often less stressful and more successful to choose “B” products that play nicely over requiring everything be “A+”.
Now pick a controller than covers your two technologies and top weirdos. You want a primarily local system so look at Homeseer, Hubitat, Homey, Zooz, Fibaro, HomeAssistant, OpenHab and ISY. Decide if you want a pre-built appliance or DIY. Be aware most appliances aren’t great at supporting more than 2 or 3 cameras as video needs a lot of bandwidth and storage. If you plan on multiple cameras you may need something PC based
welcome to IP based devices, where each feature can use a different API and/or cloud service. Matter will propagate the problem.
a zwave network is itself a mesh. There is only ever 1 controller. If all 4 were zwave controllers you would have 4 zwave meshes.
It should be marked primary. Or you can just unplug them until your stuff stops working.
there are hubs/bridges and then there are controllers.
Every smart device requires a controller because the truth is, none of them are smart. At most you get a timer, which, let’s be honest, was available back in the 60s. It’s the controller that does IF/THEN logic, tying multiple devices together
Hubs/Bridges let two different technologies talk to each other. Your router is a wifi hub/ethernet bridge you already bought. So you don’t need any bridges to connect Kasa devices. At least as long as your router can handle the number of devices. Many consumer routers are only given enough CPU/RAM to handle maybe two dozen devices.
So the question you need to ask yourself about Kasa is where is the controller? Who owns that? Who can turn it off? What happens if they do? For most Wifi devices the answer is “in the cloud, owned by the manufacturer, who can turn it off whenever they want and there’s a good chance your switches become dumb switches”.
Zigbee/ZWave needs a bridge, which is often a USB stick on a PC that acts as a controller or is integrated into a dedicated controller. Every $40 zwave radio is good for 232 devices. Zigbee devices vary but the vast majority are good for 100+ and even the most under-specced Hue hub is good for 50 zigbee bulbs.
I use HomeSeer running on a mini PC with a zwave usb radio to control my 80+ devices. if Homeseer goes under, I lose remote control until I set up a VPN server. But all my devices will still follow all their programming, I can add new devices, new rules, and let it continue to run for years if I choose.
accessory switches, at least in th4 Jasco world, muat be paired to a primary zwave switch in a 3 or 4 way configuration. it uses low voltage signaling over the traveler rather than carrying the full load.
the panel will only know about the primary as it controls the circuit.
What the other poster listed will work but its not legit in all jurisdiction. There’s no alarms before the door closes, which is a no-no for remote operated doors many places. (Possibly inculding your insurance policy)
GoControl makes a zwave garage door controller with flashing light and audible alarm. Its not cheap, usually running $70-100.
Did Matter 1.2 address the gaps in 1.1 or 1.0? Is there power monitoring on smart plugs? Lighting scenes? Light sensors?
Did CSA take advantage of wifi bandwidth and support cameras and/or video doorbells?
No?
Didn’t think so.
Oh, support for robovacs.
And there was an article about jailbreaking vacuums.
https://www.theverge.com/23934731/valetudo-robot-vacuum-hackingInteresting.
Read the wiki. Its full of terms and info you can use as jump off points.
Use a non-ip based automation tech. ZWave, zigbee, insteon, knx and RadioRa2 are popular choices.
Pick a controller that doesn’t need the cloud. Hubitat, HomeSeer, ISY994 and HomeAssistant are likewise popular. These controllers at most need internet access for initial set up and software updates.
You can lock them down completely or open specific ports for emails, remote access, etc.
I don’t use IoT, I use zwave so power budgets are small. Wireless sensors get a cr123 battery that lasts a year or more.
PoE is an option for things like shades/blinds. Alternately you can get those AV-style recessed wall boxes that have 110 outlets that you put a cover over, though you need to plan for a large enough valence to conceal it or some architectural detail.
As an fyi, wired sensors are pretty much universal. You could swap the panel out with a newer one that supports ethernet via an Envisalink board. Then you can integrate it with 2-way control to a homeseer/hass/etc. The Elk m1 and DSC Power16 would be upgrades.
plenty of zwave outdoor plugs. Jasco/GE, Zooz, Minoton, probably others.