Lots of people badmouth powerline here but if you’re on the same circuit or a nearby one they *can* work great.

Buy a pair on Amazon and be sure you can return if they don’t work out.

What does “platedwall” mean?

I asked above if the price included drywall work for the outlet box.

Did that include drywall work and painting?

Anything over about 250/100 is overkill, but it all depends on pricing.

If they charge $5 more a month for 1Gb versus 250/100 then maybe go for it.

This setup doesn’t make any sense. You need to route all traffic from the ONT into a router, and then into switches and access points.

Any other topography is unnecessarily complicated and a losing game.

No harm, but usually we only do this for a specific reason. Like giving a network printer a static ip address so windows can find it more easily on a day to day basis.

if you can’t get back into the second(?) router then perform a factory-reset on it – which is super-easy and even experts do it all the time to get themselves out of trouble! There’s usually a little button you have to push with a ballpoint pen…

Then figure out exactly what you’re doing before you make changes to any settings.

From my read of your post, you want to have a secondary wifi network in another dwelling and have it get it’s internet from the primary dwelling. Is that right?

Or are you just trying to extend the primary wifi network to another building by having an access point there that merely links back to the primary?

To use the second router as an access point, putting into access point mode may be only part of the settings. You might need to manually assign it a different ip address such as 192.168.1.2 or 192.168.1.255 -- you have to get it out of the DHCP range of the primary.

Provide more details and you can get more detailed help :)

Have you called your internet service provider. They can test most of the modem’s capability from their end.

Did this device connect again after you changed your wifi password?

What level of security are you using… WEP or WPA or WPA2 or WPA3 ?

Do you have a guest network turned on?

Start by hiring the local computer and networking tech in your community, tell this person your goals, and let them do their job.

I was such a guy for 20 years in a small city in southern California. My clients stayed with me for years.

You answered your own question: if you are going to use a rubber cable protector, like those sold by office supply stores, then it wouldn’t matter.

Also, if you use an ethernet cable and have to replace it every couple of years just a few bucks…

Call you local computer repairman. That was me for over 20 years in a medium-size town.

There are lots of places to look for trouble - the cabling needs to be tested, your ethernet adapter may just need a new driver… so many possibilities.

Professionals specialize in troubleshooting these issues. Troubleshooting is just using LOGICAL steps to narrow down to the cause of a problem.

The trick with cable (I used to be a sound engineer) is that they have a natural turn to them.

So you want to coil it up, but for every loop you turn the cable slightly in the direction it wants to turn itself.

This way you end up with a neat, flat, coil that is not fighting against itself.

Practice a couple of times and you’ll have it down. Applies to all types of cable.

This is an excellent capability of your new home, though you might need to hire the local computer person to help you get it sorted.

And it’s reasonably neat - there are people on here who expect these cabinets to be pristine with wires all straight and routed and shit – it works just fine with a LITTLE ‘spaghetti’.

First question is: what is your internet source and where is it – because it’s not in this box.

Second question: do you really need that many ethernet outlets activated around the house? If you don’t expect to use an outlet it doesn’t need to be connected. You can always change your mind later.

Third: as others have stated, the network switches at the bottom are out-of-date. Replacing the two with a modern 16-port switch will be a good idea as long as any new device you buy will physically fit in the space!

Again your whole house appears wired for both coax (television) and ethernet - and that’s fantastic! Decide what your goals are for this connectivity and then we go from there.

p.s. You will probably want to buy a mesh wifi network setup and use your existing wiring to connect each wifi transmitter back to the central mothership!

I’m a fan of one network - let your devices decide what band they want to use.

Except I encourage my workstation to use 5GHz by making it the preferred bank in the network adapter setting - because the speed is significantly faster.

For tv’s and stuff, fast enough is fast enough.

…I’d still put my two most important devices (one being my own workstation) into those those router ports you aren’t using - why put 2 devices through a switch if you don’t have to…