Windows has an I/O monitor in the Task Manager - that will help give you an idea of what your read speed is. If your laptop HD is mechanical (disk plate with arm) then that may be the reason why your read is low. Your Red Drives should be able to handle high write speeds though based on the specs.

3.77 Megabytes per second is about 31.6 Megabits per second. The slowness may not be your network, but it may be the read from your HD and the write to your NAS (I/O).

There are 3 types of ethernet splitter - passive, active (requires power to amplify signals) and PoE splitters. This one seems to be an active ethernet splitter, thus it is powered. The LED indicators can exist in either a splitter or an ethernet switch. They can’t call a switch a splitter and vice-versa, because each device works differently than the other. Just because it is powered and has LED lights doesn’t mean it’s a switch. The old ethernet hub has LED lights and is powered, but it is not a switch.

It can work simultaneously, by limiting the link speed to 100 mbps each (2 pairs each port). It literally “splits” the RJ45 input into 2 pairs to power both ports. So if you are good with 100 mbps link speeds for 2 devices (i.e., a smart TV that usually has a 100 mbps NIC and an old Apple TV HD which also has a 100 mbps NIC), then you can buy/use this product.

Yup, up to you. 15ms is external.

I missed answering question #2. So the Ring Topology happens when you have 1 MoCA adapter connected to the switch, then to a splitter, then all coax connected to that splitter, then to the corresponding MoCA adapter (nodes). This saves you money as you will need less MoCA adapters (i.e., for 2 nodes, you only need 3; for 3 nodes, you only need 4).

What you are planning to do is to use it as an ethernet alternative, which will be a 1:1 ethernet replacement. That will be expensive indeed, but will give you dedicated lines per node/device. If both MoCA adapters in the line are MoCA 2.5, then you have the full 2.5 gbps bandwidth at your disposal, if the device has a 2.5 NIC and your switch has 2.5 ports.

Not much ping penalty. Ping will be hovering around 15ms

1. Higher MoCA standards are usually backwards compatible. If you have an older MoCA adapter, it will work. But then why not buy the latest model?

2. MoCA is actually a Ring Topology, even though your coax wiring are interconnected via Star Topology. It broadcasts signals across all “nodes”, and the node that needs the signal will accept and convert it back to digital for the device to consume. With that said, what you are missing is dedicated bandwidth in this case - if your main MoCA node connecting the router to the splitter is MoCA 2.5, then all your nodes within your topology will share 2.5 gbps bandwidth (more like a hub vs a switch).

Are you asking suggestions for your SSID, you mean?

Instead of running CATx cables, try MoCA first if this is an option. Start here.

I don’t unfortunately.

You can disable the router’s wifi frequencies so that you can use your Nighthawk as your Access Point.

If you want to continue to use it as a modem, then you’ll need a new router with at least 1 2.5 gbps WAN and 1 2.5 gbps LAN ports, where you’ll connect the 2.5 gbps WAN to the XB7’s 2.5 gbps LAN port, and your new 2.5 gbps switch to the 2.5 gbps LAN port of your new router. And that will cost more money. You said the cheapest way, thus my suggestion above.

You can maximize > 1gbps bandwidth by wiring your devices with at least 2.5 gbps NIC card (i.e., PC) back to the 2.5 gbps port of your XB7 in modem/router mode. To expand the ports, you can buy at least a 2.5 gbps unmanaged switch, plug it to the lone 2.5 gbps port, and then plug your PC to the new switch. That’s the cheapest way.

Your Netgear router only has 1gbps ports, so to use them, you can plug it directly to one of the XB7’s gigabit ports, and make sure it’s in Access Point mode. Plugging it to the 2.5 gbps port of the switch or the XB7 doesn’t gain you anything beyond 1 gbps.

The only risky stuff I do is download pirated games on my desktop and very, very rarely watch corn on the laptop.

Downloading illegitimate software and installing them onto your PC will bypass all the security set by your network devices, as the networking devices doesn’t have the capability to scan/check if a downloaded file contains malware or not. A good anti-virus software may be able to sniff-out a malware from your downloaded file; therefore, building your own router doesn’t really help you in any way.

Might be good to cross post this on r/eero

Here’s an interesting experience - I bought a 10-year-old ISP-provided router 2.5 years ago from a friend, disabled it’s wireless signals, plugged it into my ONT and plugged everything else on it (including my access points) and it has never failed me. The only times it restarted was when I lost power; other than that, it’s running without any problems. I don’t know for how long though cause it’s old LOL! What’s good though is if my router does fail, all I have to do is replace it with a new one, and keep everything else intact (i.e., switches and access points) because it is decoupled.

Is it possible that your house’s electrical system is not stable, causing surges that impacts your router’s performance? Maybe try plugging your router to a UPS or a surge protector?

I have a 300 mbps symmetric fiber and my ethernet-connected devices (TVs, PCs, Laptops, PS5, etc.) are working perfectly; I’m not experiencing buffering at all.

There are a lot of factors that may be causing your problems, such as bad cables, bad ethernet/NIC of your PC/Device, ISP issues (such as Verizon FiOS wherein the Nokia ONT cannot handle malformed IPv6 packets causing issues), etc. If you can give more information about your network topology, we **may** be able to pinpoint what the problem is.

Did you contact Telus? They set it up so they should be responsible in ensuring all your ethernet ports are working. Was your internet service activated?

I have a Deco M9 Plus (3 nodes), 1 node per floor on a 3-floor townhome. Initially, only 1 out of the 2 satellite nodes were connected via ethernet, but I noticed network performance issues on the 3rd node that’s using wifi backhaul, primarily because the distance from the main node to the 3rd node is far, as well as the floors, ceilings, walls and other furniture/interference that’s causing the issues. I don’t know if it may be a problem for you depending on your home’s layout (including the materials used to build your home, i.e., concrete/brick dampens signals way more than dry wall, etc.).

Another thing to consider - M9 Plus is an old model (at least 4+ years old). If you are good with that, then go forth and acquire; otherwise, you may want to take a look at other products.